If your lights are dimming more than normal it might indicate a bad connection somewhere on the circuit. If multiple circuits are affected and some lights are getting brighter than normal, you could have a bad connection on your outside service cables. Call your local utility company first to check power to your meter socket. (Eversource if you're on Cape Cod) A common problem is tree branches falling on overhead cables and pulling them out of the connectors. The next most common problem we find is corrosion on aluminum connections in the meter socket or panel. A load test is the most accurate way to find a bad connection to your electrical meter. If everything checks out with the utility company then call an electrician to check for loose connections or corrosion in the electrical panel.

This type of breaker is probably overloaded with more items than it was intended to operate. Example: 15 amp lighting breaker trips. Do a thorough check to see what's gone out. If you have appliance nameplates that add up to 15 amps or more you need to run an additional circuit to split the loads. (maybe 2 AC or heat units) Also check behind dressers for broken lamp cords and receptacles. If this isn't the case have an electrician check the busbar connection to the back of the breaker for corrosion.

If you have a GFCI (ground fault) breaker that's tripping check the outdoor receptacle covers for water intrusion into the receptacle. Or maybe a basement sump pump with a leaky cord. If you have an AFCI (arc-fault) breaker check your appliances like vacuum cleaners and other brush style motors that might create an arc when running. Check for multiple automatic lighting controls like motion sensors and wi-fi controlled switches. Some of these may be using the ground instead of a neutral connection in the switch box to carry the load current for the device. Too many hot to ground loads can cause a GFCI or AFCI to trip.

This is a tough one to answer in just a few lines. Here are some links to copy and paste into your browser for the manufacturers websites. https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/support/help-center/browse-articles/articles/what_to_do_if_you_have_a_nuisance_or_false_alarm.aspx

The most important thing you need to check before installing a Wi-Fi Thermostat is to see if you have a common wire. The existing thermostat will have terminal labels similar to these: R, RH, RC, W, G, Y, C These are the most common labels for a typical gas or oil heat/cool system. if you don't have an existing wire connected to a C terminal you will need to see if there is an extra wire wrapped around the jacket of the thermostat wire coming out of the wall. If you don't have one you will either need to use the adapter that comes with the thermostat to create a virtual C wire, or you need to have the thermostat cable upgraded to something like an 18/6.

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